Lansing Spatech services most major brands. 

 

Lansing Spatech stocks one of the region's largest parts inventories.  If we don't have your part in stock, we will get your spa running and priority ship the part.

                                  

You can also follow our service updates at our hot tub forum.

 

Additional information is available at our 

                                               other site as well.

  spa pump, spa heater, jet pump, troubleshooting

 

 

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No Heat In The Hot Tub

 

You've just walked out to get in your spa and found that it has lost temperature.  There are several things that you can check prior to having a technician come out.  First, is the heat indicator on?  If the heat indicator is on and the temperature is dropping, there is likely a condition ehich requires a technician.  If the indicator is not on, the next thing to check is the flow from the pump that is responsible for pushing water through the heater.  This might be a circulation pump or a two speed primary pump.  If the flow appears to be good and there is no heat, a technician is likely needed.   If the flow appears reduced, turn off the power and remove the filter and any floating debris.  Turn the power back on without the filter in and check the flow.  If the flow is better and the heat is on, clean the filter.  If the flow is still low, check for proper water level.  Low water level can cause pump cavitation which will prevent the spa from heating.  In the end, if none of these check out, it is time to have a technician come out and look for blockage in the system, failure of a component, or issues with a sensor.

 

Why a Full Foam Hot Tub?

 

A full foam hot tub is essential for outdoor use in the Northeast.  This is not to say that blanket-style insulation is not efficient.  The thing to consider is what happens if the power goes out.  The full foam insulates pipes and provides support.  Blanket insulation uses the heat genrated by the running pumps to keep the pipes warm.  Both systems can be very energy efficient when operating.  If the power to the unit should go out, the differences become very evident.  Full foamed spas have the ability to last for five to six days without power.  Blanket insulated spas will begin losing their heat rapidly once the pumps shut off.  The lack of insulation does make them easy to replumb, but replumbing a spa is very cost prohibitive.  In the ever-changing New England environment, it is important to choose a spa with full foam insulation.

 

 

What Makes a Hot Tub Cover "Good"?

 

A good hot tub cover will have a multitude of aspects that, when combined, make it ideal.  Having one or two of these qualities is better than none, but having them all can make hot tub operation easier and less expensive.  The first thing to look for is high density foam (at least 2 ponds).  Next, the cover should have a full-length heat seal to reduce heat loss.  Double wrapped cores are essential to prolong cover life.  Proper fit is essential for energy efficiency.  A cover can be slightly larger than the tub, but should never be smaller than the outer rim.  Smaller cavers tend to sit up on the skirt which lifts them off of the shell and renders them virtually useless in terms of energy conservation.  Finally, using the right lifter really makes a cover easier to manage and helps prolong the lifespan.

 

Winterizing a Hot Tub

 

Every spring we receive a large number of calls from customers who winterized their own spas and have freeze fractures as a result.  Winterizing a spa is a very involved process, far more so than even a pool, and must be done properly to avoid the type of damage that can result in the disposal of the hot tub.  The cost to winterize a hot tub is $199 plus state tax.  This is fraction of the cost to repair even a minor freeze fracture.  Please call us, regardless of your brand of hot tub, to winterize your  spa instead of attempting it yourself.

 

Symbol	Price	Change	% Chg
IBM	125.55	-0.86	-0.68%
COKE	58.92	0.01	0.02%
CSCO	26.13	unch	0.00%
GE	16.49	0.22	1.35%
BAC	16.80	0.06	0.36%
FORD	2.28	-0.02	-0.87%
Quotes are by IDC Comstock and are delayed 20 minutes. Fund prices are from Morningstar.

 

Why Saratoga Spas?

 

For those who have not heard, we have changed brands from Sundance Spas to Saratoga Spas.  We will continue to be your regional service provider for Sundance Spas and Jacuzzi Brands.  However, going forward, we will be offering the complete line of Saratoga Spas in our Hadley, MA store.  Saratoga Spas are made in the Northeast in upstate New York.  The company has a firm grasp of the conditions that a hot tub is exposed to in this climate.  They make some of the industry's most efficient and durable spas available.  We are able to offer these units at very reasonable prices partly due to proximity.  Shipping a spa across the country costs alot of money.  We have had a relationship with Saratoga Spas that dates back to 2001 on the repair side and are very familiar with their products and performance.  The staff at Saratoga Spas has always impressed us with their product knowledge and their understanding of the industry.  As the industry has changed, Saratoga Spas has diversified its offerings to adapt to these changes.  Saratoga Spas was established in 1984 and holds a multitude of patents for parts designed in-house by their engineering staff.  To summarize, Saratoga Spas is a regional manufacturer with a long history of dependability, diversified products and price ranges, and the proper staff to assist its dealers in making the consumer happy.  Please stop by the store when you have a chance and see these fine hot tubs for yourself.

 

 

Hot tub chemicals

 

We have found that many customers have a variety of questions in regard to hot tub chemical usage.  There are several chemcials which are essential to proper water chemistry and many that are optional. 

 

Essential Chemicals:

• The first chemcial is Stain & Scale.  Stain & Scale is a sequestering agent that is used to prevent scaling on the shell, heater and other components.  Even if you don't experience scaling on the hot tub shell, 2 ounces of Stain and Scale per week should still be used to protect the hot tub equipment. 
• The next chemical is Alkalinity Up.  Alkalinity is the stabilizer for the pH.  Alkalinity should be kept between 80-100 PPM (parts per miilion).  If you have well water, your alkalinity may be fine.  Most city water supplies have extremely low alkalinty levels.  Use Alkalinity Up to raise the alkalinity.  Add 2 tablespoons at a time and wait 30 minutes between tests.  You will notice that the pH level increase simultaneously with the alkalinity level.  Don't use Alkalinity Up to adjust pH as this will cause the alkalinity level to go above the ideal level. 
• The next chemical is pH up.  pH is the stabilizer for the sanitizer.  With the alkalinity stabilized, the pH won't tend to bouce very much, but pH up will be necessary to maintain proper pH levels.  pH should be maintained at a level of 7.6. 
• The final essential chemical is the sanitizer.  Chlorine or bromine can be used to properly sanitize your hot tub.  Sanitizer levels should be maintained between 3-5 PPM.  Sanitizer levels should be tested prior to use.  If levels are too low, add sanitizer and wait to use the hot tub.  Chlorine (sodium dichlor) comes in granular form and should be added every 1-2 days.  Chlorine should be added following spa use at a rate of 1 heaping teaspoon per person (up to 4).  Bromine tabs should be added at a rate of 2-3 tablets every 3-4 days.  Levels should be tested before use.  If low, add chlorine and wait to use the spa.  Regardless of which sanitizer you are using, 4 teaspoons of chlorine should be added one day per week to shock the water.  After shocking, leave the cover open for 20 minutes to allow the gases to escape.

 

Optional Chemicals: 

• The first optionsl chemical is Water Clarifier.  Water Clarifier is a coagulant that is used to clear water.  It works by binding small particles together making them large enough for the filter to catch.  No more than 1 ounce of Water Clarifier should be used per week.  Excessive use will cloud the water. 
• The next optional chemical is Scum Out.  Scum Out is an enzyme which reduces body oils in the hot tub water.  No more than 1 ounce of Scum Out should be used per week. 
• The next optional chemical is Foam Gone.  Foam Gone is used to reduce foaming when soap is introduced into the hot tub.  Foam Gone doesn't remove the soap, it siply changes the water tension so that bubbles can't form.  Foam Gone should only be used in very small doses.  The real solution for soap conditions is to drain, clean, and refill the spa.

 

 

Hot tub breaker tripping in cold weather

 

If your breaker is tripping in the winter it is very important to take immediate action.  Place a call to our service line.  Purchse a sump pump (1/4 horsepower) and place it in the spa without a hose attached and plug it in.  Wait several hours and try to reset the breaker.  Note that GFCI breakers require that you turn them completely off prior to resetting.  If the breaker fails to reset, schedule a service call to resolve the issue.

Spas and hot tubs with no power in cold weather

If your spa or hot tub is not operating in cold weather (below 25F) it is important to take measures to protect the spa.  The most important thing that you can do is to put a sump pump in the spa.  Use a 1/4 horsepower or larger sump pump.  Place the pump in the center of the spa.  Do not attach a hose.  Plug the pump in and allow the pump to recirculate the water within the spa.  The efficiency of sump pumps causes them to radiate heat.  By running the sump pump continuously, you will begin adding heat back into the spa water.  This heat will radiate outward and keep the insulated pipes warm until a technician can get to the spa for repair.

Sequestering Agents 

Hot tub owners frequently ask if they really need to use products such as stain and metal controllers. The simple answer is yes. These agents are designed to protect the spa shell, the heater, and the additional components. Failure to use these products can result in heavy mineral deposits on the shell and heater. Although these deposits won't cause heater failure, they will cost increased energy use. The heater element is directly exposed to the water and transfers heat to the water as it passes over the element. If the element becomes coated with minerals, the heat transfer is greatly reduced and causes the heater to run for longer and longer cycles. We often replace heaters which have become ineffective due to heavy deposits of calcium, iron and other minerals. In general, four ounces of the product should be added at fill-up. Thereafter, two ounces per week should be added for maintenance. In cases of well water with heavy mineral content, an initial dose of up to twelve ounces can be added. After adding the stain inhibitor, run the filtration pump for at least one hour before balancing the pH and adding sanitizers or shock. This will allow the stain inhibitor to sequester the minerals and prevent the sanitizers from oxidizing them and causing discoloration of the water and heavy water lines on the shell.